Everything I hate about masks

...and how I fixed it. And now I desperately want to share my ideas with you so you can feel better in your masks! We'll cover the benefits, drawbacks, and how-to's here, and the next post will show you how to care for your mask so it lasts and lasts.

I think my pattern here is one of the best on the interwebs. I tried other patterns, but I wasn't satisfied. I worked really hard to develop and refine this pattern. It's been field-tested by myself, family and friends, and I've made over 100 masks with this design. It fits well, feels great, and looks wonderful. I'm very confident that you'll love it.

Problems and solutions

Behind-the-ear elastic hurts

⇒ on my pattern the elastic goes behind the head

Masks slip up or down, so you have to touch them to fix it

⇒ cutting fabric on the bias fixes this problem

Curved masks fit better, but are harder to sew, and finding the perfect fit is hard

⇒ my pattern doesn't use curves, but it still fits!

Masks have big gaps at the eyes

⇒ my pattern takes care of that with one fold, no special metal strips needed

Masks are itchy

⇒ silk fibers don't fray and tickle like cotton does

Masks get wet from my breath

⇒ silk dries faster than cotton

I want to use a filter

⇒ this pattern accepts a filter

The elastic is always too long or too short

⇒ I show you how to use a slip knot and make your elastic straps adjustable

Behind-the-head elastics seem dangerous

⇒ I also have a breakaway safety knot option!

Okay...so what's wrong with it?

Sounds too good to be true, right? There are some drawbacks:

bias cut uses a lot more fabric
elastic behind the head requires, well, longer elastic
it's harder to put on than an over-the-ear mask
people who wear their hair over their ears might find the mask elastic slips down. There is a fix though: part the hair where the elastic should go, lift the hair up and out of the way, put the mask on and let the hair back down.
even with starch and a walking foot, the fabric can still be difficult to sew
it will ball up if you put it in the dryer
silk means you have to keep it away from bleach and alcohol

If you're thinking, "I think I can deal with that," read on and I'll help you make a mask you love!

Tutorial time!

First I'll give an overview to help you understand what's involved. After that will be the supply list, and finally the thorough instructions, pictures, and video tutorial. So, let's get to it!

Silk face mask made from antique lavender silk using this pattern

Silk face mask, side view

Taking measurements

(For the "I don't want to measure; just give me the pattern already" people, I hear you. Skip to the end of this section to get common measurements you can use.)

Width (1): If you already have a mask size you like, go ahead and use it for the width. Otherwise, measure from one side of your face to the other, passing over the tip of your nose. Add 2 cm for seam allowance.

Mask measurement guidelines

Height (2): Open your mouth slightly (say the "o" of "opera," for example). Measure from the bridge of your nose (or draw an imaginary line connecting the lowest part of your eyes, and measure from where it crosses your nose) to just under your chin. Add 2 cm for seam allowance.

Top elastic: measure from the side of your face, behind and high on your head, to the other side of your face. Add 12 cm to this measurement to give enough length for the knots.

Bottom elastic: measure from your jaw around and low behind your head to the other side of your jaw. Add 12 cm to this measurement to give enough length for the knots.

Common sizes (seam allowance is included)

Adults and older teens: (same for men or women) 22 cm x 18 cm, upper elastic 52 cm, lower elastic 37 cm

Child age 11-15: 21.5 cm x 15.5 cm, upper elastic 44 cm, lower elastic 35 cm

Child age 7-10: 17.5 cm x 15 cm, upper elastic 44 cm, lower elastic 35 cm

Child age 3-6 (see safety knot instructions, below): 15.5 cm x 12.5 cm, upper elastic 44 cm, lower elastic 35 cm

Overview

I'll give detailed instructions and videos after this overview. Read all the way through this whole post and watch the videos before you start. This part should help you get your bearings.

Total sewing time: about 1 hour if using a sewing machine

Total project time: 6 hours to 1 day, to account for drying time after starching and after washing

For the mask body: Starch your fabric and let it dry. Cut the inner and outer fabric out on the bias. Each mask will have two layers. Turn up the bottom of both layers by 1 cm and press and sew to the back side. Lay right sides together and sew layers together on 3 sides, leaving the bottom unsewn. Press seam allowance in, then turn work right-side out. Press and topstitch all the way around, except for the filter opening. Turn the top down to the inside by 2 cm and sew the sides down. Now fold the mask in half so that only the inner side is visible. Stitch the sides halfway down, starting from the middle fold (you'll see in the pictures and video below). This finishes the mask body.

Wash and treat fabric: At this point I like to wash my mask to get the starch out, and then soak it in vinegar to kill any lingering odors. I do it before the elastic is attached because vinegar can be too harsh on elastic.

Attach the elastic: Once the mask is dry, grab one of the upper corners of the mask (the part you flipped down 2 cm earlier) and lay it down so that the inner layer is facing up. Use a wide zig-zag stitch to sew a channel over one of the elastics. Tie a surgeon's knot. Zig-zag the other end of the elastic to the other upper corner (short end pointing in toward the mask), and tie a slipknot. Repeat surgeon's knot and slip knot for the lower elastic. Now tuck in your thread tails, and you're done!

Essential supplies

Sewing machine capable of a straight and zig-zag stitch: you probably could do this by hand, but silk has a way of gripping the thread and making sewing go very slowly.
Silk fabric: you can use the same fabric for the inner layer and outer layer, or use two different fabrics
Paperboard / cardboard / etc. to make a template
Fabric marking pens
Thread that matches your outside fabric
Elastic: I prefer flat 4 coil that's really stretchy instead of stiff

Highly recommended supplies

Starch (I made my own: 2 tablespoons starch cooked with 250 ml water, then cooled with another 250 ml of water. I poured it into a spray bottle and shook it really well.)
Walking foot. I hate to say it, but if you're using a sewing machine it makes your life a lot easier. It's come in handy for other projects, too, so I consider it a good investment.
Color stop, or some product that will stop color from bleeding. Every kimono I used needed this product. I was able to soak dark and light colors together in the solution without any ill effects, but use your judgement here.

Instructions

Template for child age 11-15

Prep steps

Starch your fabric and let dry completely. Cut your elastic straps and treat the ends with fray check, and let this dry completely, too. Take your paperboard and make a template using the measurements you took earlier. Make sure to include seam allowance. I like to mark my template with the fabric grain, measurements, and top and bottom elastic measurements. Mark a 7 cm opening along the bottom of the template.

Mask body

Mark and cut out fabric: Place your template on your outer layer fabric, turned 45° so that the edges now run along the fabric bias. Mark your fabric for as many masks as you want to make, planning carefully around any patterns, stains, or designs. Repeat for the inner layer fabric and cut everything out. (Video mark 1:28)
Press bottom edge up 1 cm: Lay your cut pieces with the wrong side facing you. Turn the bottom edge up 1 cm and press. Repeat for all pieces. (Video mark 3:45)
Sew bottom edge: Set your machine for a narrow zig-zag stitch. This lets your stitches stretch just a little bit. If you don't do this, you're likely to pop stitches when wearing or washing the mask. Sew close to the upturned edge. This stitching will be visible on the finished mask. (Video mark 3:53)
Sew both layers together on 3 sides: Lay your inner and outer layer together, right sides facing. Move the inner layer up just a little bit (1-2 mm). Using a narrow zig-zag stitch and a short stitch length, begin sewing from the bottom and up one short side. Stitch for about 4 stitches. Change to a regular stitch length but keep the zig-zag. Continue up the rest of the short side, along the top, and down the other side, finishing with a short stitch length. I do the short stitches instead of backstitching because it avoids sewing through thread and it's easier to keep my stitches tidy. (Video mark 4:04)
Trim the seam allowance at the corners (Video mark 5:14)
Press seam allowance in toward outer layer: this will make pressing easier when you turn the piece right-side out. (Video mark 5:35)
Turn work right-side out and press. (Video mark 6:07)
Fold seam allowance corners out of the way, then topstitch: Using a narrow zig-zag stitch and a short stitch length, begin topstitching from the filter opening. Change to a normal stitch length and continue topstitching all around the edge until you reach the opposite side of the filter opening. Finish with a short stitch length. (Video mark 6:55)
Fold the top edge down 2 cm toward the inner fabric. Beginning at the folded edge, sew 2.5 or 3 cm down the side, turn your work, and sew back along the same line. Repeat for the opposite side. (Video mark 7:52)
Fold the mask in half at the sides with the inner layer visible. Beginning at the new folded edge, sew halfway down the side edge, turn your work, and sew back along the same line. Repeat for the opposite side. (Video mark 10:30)
Wash your mask in warm water and mild soap. If you notice color bleed, rinse the mask and soak it in a color stop solution according to the manufacturer's directions. Rinse again, then soak in distilled white vinegar for 30 seconds or so. Rinse one final time, then hang to dry. Let the mask dry completely before continuing.

alternate video link: The BEST facemask pattern: free tutorial

How to attach the elastic: adjustable slip knot method

Pay special attention to the instructions, and follow the video exactly. If you tie the knots in the wrong order or from the wrong side, it's more likely that your elastic will come undone. I've tested different methods, and this one works.

Upper elastic, first knot is a surgeon's knot: grab an upper corner of the mask and hang the elastic a little bit over the side edge. The elastic should be about 1 cm down and 1 cm in from the corner. Change your stitch to your widest zig-zag with the shortest stitch length. Sew a channel over the elastic for about half a centimeter. Tie off your threads and hide them. With the short end of the elastic still hanging over the mask's edge, tie a surgeon's knot.
Upper elastic, second knot is the slip knot: Use the same zig-zag technique to hold the other end of the elastic, pointing in toward the mask, to the upper opposite corner. Tie a slipknot.
To secure the lower elastic straps, follow the same procedure in the previous steps with one small change: have the elastic pointing diagonally to the corner.
Hide your thread tails, and pat yourself on the back for a job well done!

alternate video link: Attaching or replacing face mask elastic

How to attach the elastic: breakaway safety knot method

alternate video link: Attaching a breakaway safety knot to your cloth face mask

To secure the elastic straps with the breakaway knot method, click on the link just above.

Fit check

alternate video link: How to put on your silk mask

To put the mask on, turn the mask right side out but with the points still in. The mask will look a little bit like a boat. Grab the elastic straps in both hands, look up, and put your chin in the mask like it's a sling. Pull the elastic straps up and over the head, letting go of the bottom elastic and putting the upper elastic at the top back of your head. Shift the mask up on your face. Pull up at the nose and down at the chin with a little stretch. Make sure you can see your topstitching at the top of your nose. Adjust the length of the elastics so that the mask feels light on your face. The bottom elastic should be loose, but tighten when you look up.

So, how did it go? Were there any steps you struggled with? Did I make a mistake? Did you find the project easy or hard?

Translate

Pages

Monday, February 22, 2021

Recycling silk kimono into face masks: free tutorial for a bias-cut face mask