Ikkanbari: old-school decoupage makes a durable bag that will last for decades

I hadn't heard of ikkanbari, but when a friend asked if I would like to try this craft with her, I jumped at the opportunity. If you're in the same boat I was, here's a quick overview: it's a woven basket covered with Japanese paper and fabric, then coated in a thin layer of lacquer made from persimmon juice. The bags are light, but incredibly sturdy and can last for years. My teacher showed me a bag made about one hundred years ago, and it was in the same shape as one made yesterday. During their off season, farmers traditionally made a variety of items using this technique, including wastebaskets, flat baskets, and wooden boxes.

Here's why they're really cool: there is a lot of Japanese culture concentrated into something you can hold and use in your every-day life. The base paper can be over 100 years old and still be incredibly strong, and comes from old song books, or calligraphy practice pages, journals, or anything really. The top layer paper can be made from old books, sumo announcements, theater pages, etc. The top layer fabric often comes from old kimono or yukata that aren't worn anymore and are getting a second use, and is an introduction to Japanese color theory. On top of that, the lacquer that protects it all is from a fruit that is everywhere in Japan in the fall. When you hold an ikkanbari, you are holding history and tradition and culture. 

Here's what my finished product looks like:

Completed ikkanbari: front

Completed ikkanbari: back

Completed ikkanbari: inside

This isn't really a DIY project, because there are so many little details that you only understand when a teacher explains them. I'll describe the process, but I don't think it can substitute for an experienced teacher. Plus persimmon juice lacquer isn't something easily found on most supermarket shelves.

Total time required for beginners: about 15 hours if you work carefully, maybe 10 if you rush

What you'll need:

• Tight, flat-woven basket (so not the twiggy type, and large bags are easier for beginners than small ones)
• Old Japanese paper of mixed subjects (It's extremely important that you use the right paper. If it's really, really hard to tear, you've got the right stuff. Do NOT substitute other paper.)
• Pretty washi paper for the inside of the bag (Again, substitutions are NOT recommended. Long fiber paper ONLY, or you're going to have a mess.)
• Punch (to make the holes for the handles)
• Pretty fabric with motifs you can cut out, ideally a handful of warm and a handful of cool colors. Apply a thin layer of glue to the back side and let dry, then cut out.
• Scrap fabric for the rim, probably bias cut is best but straight is okay. You'll want lightweight fabric for the corners and medium weight fabric for the straight edges. Again, coat the back side with a thin layer of glue and let dry, then cut to exactly cover the rim of the basket.
• 2 fabric strips of two different colors, 3 feet (1 m) in width, cut, sewn, and stuffed to a tube the same diameter as the holes in your bag, long enough to go around the rim of the bag 1.5 times.
• Glue that dries clear and is non-acidic
• 1.5-2" (4-5 cm) flat craft brush (3)
• .5" (1.5 cm) very stiff flat craft brush
• .5" (1.5 cm) round soft paint brush
• Dull smoothing knife to coax the paper into behaving
• Sharp craft knife
• Clean, lint free wet rags
• Kakishibu (persimmon lacquer)

First, punch the holes for the bag's handles.

My sensei, punching the holes for the bag's handles

Have old paper, glue, brushes, 2 wet rags, and one brush ready for the next step, covering the inside and the outside of the bag with paper.

Mise en place for this project

Starting with an inner long side, roughly size the paper and imagine its placement, tearing edges rather than using scissors because it gives a smoother look. Plan for the paper to overlap by about half an inch (1 cm), and overlap the rim by about the same amount.

To start, use the wide craft brush to spread a thin layer of glue inside the basket where you'll place your first sheet of paper. The glue area should be a little larger than the paper. 

Spreading the glue

Next, use the same brush to spread a thin layer of glue on the back side of the paper. 

Spreading glue on 50-year-old paper

Try to use suction from the brush to help you lift the paper and place it in the basket. 

Carefully placing the paper

When the paper is straight and mostly tight, use the brush and begin tapping from the center to the outside edge to get rid of any air pockets and make the paper smooth. You'll get glue on top of the page and that's fine. You don't want air pockets because after the paper dries it can crack over time, so be very diligent to remove them as you find them. 

Tapping the paper into place

Pat firmly with one of the rags and check for smoothness. The better it follows the contours of the basket, the more durable it will be.

Removing excess glue and smoothing the paper

First sheet, complete

Use the smoothing tool to start at the point of a wrinkle and push toward the paper's edge. Usually the wrinkle will smooth out and disappear. 

Smoothing wrinkles away with a blunt tool

Repeat these first steps until the inner sides of the basket are covered. Then start on the bottom. Again, plan for the sheets to overlap. When you get to the corners, wet a soft thin paintbrush with water and push gently but firmly until the paper is molded to the basket's shape.

A wet round paintbrush works well for the corners 

When the inside is complete, use the same technique to work the outside. Bring the paper up and over the rim, then overlap the inside layer by about half an inch (1 cm). Follow the contours of the rim as well as you possibly can. Use the hard brush to really push it up under the rim. You can even swipe the smoothing tool between the woven sides of the rim to push the paper in the gaps a little bit. This will help avoid wrinkles and make the bag very strong. Also follow the contours of the bottom of the bag very closely, using the smoothing tool to follow any edges. While working on the outside, it will be necessary to have a wet side touching the table while you work on the unfinished side. Place your second wet rag under the wet side to protect it while you finish. Let dry until hard (one hour to one day, depending on your humidity and weather).

Bag bottom, contours carefully followed

As before, but with washi paper this time, plan the inside of the bag. Follow the same steps until the inside of the bag is covered, but tap the washi in place using the second craft brush dipped in a little water instead of glue.

Washi paper is used for the second layer inside the bag

Now with more interesting paper, cover the outside of the bag with one more layer of paper. 

Outer side with second layer of paper

 Place interesting elements carefully and prominently, but not too many. Let dry until hard.

Pictures from old books add interest

Next, plan the placement of the fabric. Traditionally warm colors are placed on one side and cool colors are placed on the other. Circles of fabric are placed at the corners to improve durability. Coat the fabric's wrong side with glue first, and then the placement area on the bag. This gives the glue already on the fabric time to soften. Wet your second craft brush with a little water and tap it on the fabric's surface with the same technique as the brush with the glue on it.

Fabric placed, back side

Fabric placed, front side

Now it's time to reveal the holes that were punched at the beginning. Hold the bag up to the light so the holes are easy to see. Use a needle to poke a hole in the paper at the middle of the hole. Use a craft knife to divide the paper covering the hole into quarters. Use nippers or scissors to divide those quarters into thirds. Use the round paintbrush to coat the cut areas with water, and coat the inner side with a little glue. Push into the hole from the outside using something with a thick handle to fold the cut paper to the inside. With the smoothing tool, smooth the paper away from the hole so it lays flat on the inside of the bag.

Next, carefully cover the rim with fabric. Make sure the bottom of the fabric on the outside lines up exactly for a professional look.

Nearly done now, fabric covering the rim and holes are open

For the penultimate step, an equal amount of lacquer and water are mixed. A little goes a long way, so only use about 3 tablespoons (15 ml) of each. Use your 3rd flat craft brush to apply the lacquer, starting with the inside corners and sweeping away. Coat evenly, inside and out, including the bottom. Save the rim for last. Mop up any drips or excess with a wet rag.

Lacquer made from unripe astringent persimmons

Lastly, coat with a final layer of full-strength lacquer. Let dry completely. Add handles and a charm for good luck, and you're finished!

Our teacher told us that baskets like ours can be made in a day if done by an expert. Mine was done in 3-hour class periods spaced over a few weeks. I planned to use mine to hold my current craft projects, but I'll also carry it when I wear my yukata during the summer festivals. This was a very special project and I'm so glad I did it.